Cambodia through the eyes of our founder

Cambodia has a way of capturing travellers’ hearts. With its extraordinary temples, lush jungle landscapes and warm, welcoming people, it’s a destination that leaves a lasting impression.

Our curious founder Helen Dooley recently returned from a journey through the country, and here she shares a few reflections from her time there.

I had barely stepped off the plane when the thick, humid air of Cambodia wrapped around me like an old friend. From the chaotic heartbeat of Phnom Penh to the whispering jungle in the north, this place – both wounded and wonderful – captivated me instantly.

Nothing could have prepared me for the overwhelming greenness of Cambodia’s countryside. Driving out of the city, I watched the landscape open up into endless rice paddies, water buffalo wading lazily under a burning sun.

Then came the jungle. Dense, lush and alive, it pressed in on either side of the narrow roads, hiding ancient secrets in the undergrowth.

Into the jungle

When the tarmac ended we were picked up by original 1960s jeeps left by the Americans and driven deep into the jungle to the utterly delightful and slightly bonkers Shinta Mani Wild.

Arriving there is an experience in its own right – collected by vintage jeeps, driven through the jungle and then climbing to rather scary heights to zipline across the jungle and waterfalls. That first drink afterwards was absolute bliss!

Once there we ziplined, rode motorbikes through the countryside with the anti-poaching patrol, walked the jungle by torchlight, planted orchids and enjoyed one or two spa treatments (they’re included – it would have been rude not to sample!).

Nestled deep in the jungle and accompanied by the sound of rushing water, the land here is so pristine, so untouched, it felt like something from a myth.

Cambodia’s rich history

But the land in Cambodia doesn’t just speak of nature – it speaks of history. A history both glorious and heartbreaking.

You can’t talk about Cambodia without acknowledging the shadow of the Khmer Rouge. I visited the Killing Fields, and the silence there is something that stays with you. It’s not the silence of peace, but of grief.

And yet, even amidst such darkness, the spirit of this country endures. It doesn’t flinch from its past – it engages, it remembers, it mourns, and somehow finds ways to heal.

That spirit is perhaps most profoundly captured in Angkor Wat. I can’t quite put into words the depth of emotion walking through the private gate in silence and seeing the mighty temples of Angkor unfold before you. Once a city home to more than a million people and bustling with life.

Buddhist monks wrapped in their orange robes still walk through the grounds as they would have done a thousand years ago.

I arrived before dawn, and as the sun slowly crept up behind those iconic spires, I was struck by the sheer reverence of the place. Not just the architectural beauty – the carvings and the grandeur – but the stillness.

Here, the old Cambodia – the spiritual, the eternal – speaks in every stone and every carving. You feel it deeply. If spirituality and culture make you tick, please add this to your list.

The people of Cambodia

What really makes Cambodia magic is the Cambodians. Resilient, resourceful, endearing, welcoming, enchanting. A country full of trusting people who lost so much and are doing their best to write a new history for their recovering country.

In a village outside Siem Reap, a woman invited me into her home to show us her home brew – I refrained from trying! She admired my pale skin and hooted out loud when I told her I spray myself to look more tanned, shouting to her neighbours so they could share the joke.

Children waved from their bicycles as I passed by shouting ‘hello!’ with a joy so infectious I couldn’t help but laugh. If the human story moves you and love learning about our journey on earth, look forward to visiting one of the most welcoming places I’ve ever had the luck to visit.

Where I stayed

Rosewood Phnom Penh

Phnom Penh is a wonderfully chaotic city – vibrant, energetic and full of life – so returning each evening to the calm of Rosewood Phnom Penh felt like stepping into a sanctuary.

Perched high above the city in the capital’s tallest building, the views alone are spectacular. Watching the sun set over the Mekong from the upper floors was one of those quiet travel moments you don’t forget.

The rooms are elegant and beautifully designed, with a real sense of space, and the hotel’s restaurants and bars make it just as enjoyable to spend an evening in as it is to head out and explore the city below. It’s the perfect place to begin a Cambodian journey.

Shinta Mani Wild

One of the most extraordinary places I’ve ever stayed has to be Shinta Mani Wild. Set deep within the jungle between three national parks, this Bill Bensley-designed retreat feels like stepping into a slightly mad but completely wonderful adventure.

Arriving is an experience in itself – driven through the jungle before ziplining into camp over waterfalls and treetops. And that first drink waiting at the end? Absolute bliss.

Once there, the days fill quickly: ziplining through the jungle, riding motorbikes with the anti-poaching patrol, planting orchids, walking through the forest by torchlight and enjoying the spa treatments (all included, so it would have been rude not to!).

Despite all the activity, it still manages to feel like a true retreat – peaceful, immersive and surrounded by pristine jungle.

Shinta Mani Angkor

Probably one of my favourite hotel rooms ever… and that takes a bit of doing!

I absolutely loved the quirky design of the pool villas at Shinta Mani Angkor. The contrasting tiles flow beautifully through the outdoor areas and pools, and the bedroom and bathroom sit in separate villas connected by a huge walk-in wardrobe. Even the rainfall shower – not usually my favourite – was wonderful here. Set outside in the warm Cambodian air, it felt completely indulgent.

The location is also fantastic, making it easy to wander around the friendly town of Siem Reap between temple visits.

I also had the pleasure of visiting a few more wonderful properties during my time in Siem Reap.

Amansara was exactly what you’d expect from Aman – serene, understated and beautifully calm. Originally built as a royal guesthouse for visiting dignitaries, it retains a wonderful sense of history while offering Aman’s signature minimalist luxury. It felt incredibly peaceful, and the proximity to the temples makes it an exceptional base for exploring Angkor.

Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor, meanwhile, is a true Cambodian icon. Stepping inside feels like travelling back to the golden age of exploration, with its grand colonial architecture, beautiful gardens and famous pool. It’s full of character and history – the sort of place that has welcomed travellers to Siem Reap for generations.

Planning your own Cambodia journey

From the quiet spirituality of Angkor Wat at sunrise to the wild beauty of the Cardamom jungle and the warmth of the people you meet along the way, it’s a destination that feels both deeply moving and endlessly fascinating.

For me, it was the people who made the greatest impression. Their resilience, generosity and openness are something you feel everywhere you go.

If Cambodia has sparked your curiosity, we’d be delighted to help you plan a journey that brings together its temples, landscapes and wonderful hotels – just as Helen experienced on her recent trip.